Blogger Postcards Around The World #2 - Happy Valentine's

February 3, 2007


This is the second edition of this postcard exchange organized by the lovely and talented Meeta. It is extremely difficult to find a Valentine related postcard and since I make my own greeting cards, I decided to create this one for....sorry can't say...! Let's just say it has to travel some miles and a few ponds....!


Life has a way of getting in the middle of one's best laid plans and I apologize if it took me a while to blog about it, the card was actually sent last week.
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Food And Photography - Guest Posting

February 2, 2007

Inspiration

Seeing my desserts through a lens, becoming the "director of photography" of my own baking ( and I say that in the lightest way possible, wink!)...I would have never thought I would enjoy it so much, live it so much and want to learn from professional food photographers. That's why I have always refrained from answering readers' questions about food photography, (vast and subjective topic) but when Leemei from My Cooking Hut asked if I'd be interested to write about my experiences as a food blogger-photographer, I figured it was a sign I needed to sit down and do so.

We all blog differently, we all photograph differently and we all think about it differently, but in the end we all try to do something that is enjoyable and fulfilling for where we are at that moment in our life. Since some of you asked, I hope that you will take this guest post as it is: an account of my experiences and doings in "dessert photography" and not as a "photo 101". I leave that for the books and the pros, who will always be my source of inspiration.
Click for the photography guest post. Thank you Leemei for the opportunity!

Chocolate Cupcakes - Happy Thanksgiving!

That would be rude to leave you without a dessert and a recipe wouldn't it? My photo subjects for the guest post were chocolate buttermilk cupcakes with cream cheese buttercream. No intense bubbling sugar or multi layer dessert. I know how to kick back and relax too!! Actually I live surrounded by cupcake fiends so once in a while, it feels good to let loose whilst in the middle of baking and photographing for the book. There is something really satisfying in a simple chocolate cupcake, whether it be unwrapping that mini cake or adding sprinkles to it. Something so essential and basic when you are solitary writing and baking, that it brings you back to reality in just a few bites. Especially when your little nephew asks "Auntie Helen, can you make me chocolate cupcakes with snow frosting and plenty of sprinkles on top?"....Ah the simple things are good....

Buttermilk Chocolate Cupcakes:
Makes about 18-20 depending on the size.

4 oz fine-quality semisweet chocolate
1 cups hot brewed coffee
2 ½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 ½ cups unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch process)
2 tsp baking soda
¾ tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups sugar
¾ cup canola oil
1 ½ cups buttermilk
1 tsp pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Lightly coat the inside of your cupcake wrappers with cooking spray. In a bowl, combine the chocolate and the hot coffee and let stand, stirring occasionally until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth, about 5 minutes. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Set aside. With your electric mixer, beat together the eggs and sugar until pale and thick (about 5 minutes). Slowly add the oil, buttermilk, vanilla, and the previously melted chocolate mixture to eggs/sugar mixture. Beat until well incorporated. Add the flour mixture in 3 increments and beat until smooth. Divide the batter among your cupcake liners and bake for about 25 minutes or until a knife or toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean.

For the cream cheese buttercream:
1 1/2 sticks (170 gr) butter at room temperature
4 oz (120gr) cream cheese, softened
3 egg whites
1/2 cup (100gr) sugar
2 Tb water
1 tsp vanilla extract or vanilla paste or 1/2 vanilla bean split open and seeded.

In the bowl of stand mixer, whip the egg whites until they have soft peaks. In the meantime, combine 2 Tb water with the sugar to a boil in a heavy saucepan and bring the syrup to 250F. Slowly add the sugar syrup to the egg whites. If you use hand beaters, this is even easier and there is less hot syrup splatter on the side of your bowl and in the whisk attachment of the stand mixer. Continue to whip until the meringue is completely cooled. Slowly add the butter, one tablespoon at a time. The mass might curdle but no panic, continue to whip until it all comes together. Add the cream cheese, the same way, a little at a time until everything is smooth. Whisk in the vanilla extract, or paste or bean. Keep it in the fridge up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to a month.

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Sweet Work Part 2

The second part of my interview with Anita for the release of her book "Field Guide To Cookies" is up in the latest edition of Desserts Magazine! Watch out now....it's a whole issue of just cookies! Perfect for this month of gift giving. No, I don't get a cent for promoting the magazine, I just get excited when I see quality work and passion shared for food and baking in particular. Sharing....it's all about sharing. Now...go get Anita's book ok?!!!
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Chocolate Oatmeal Drops

February 1, 2007



Having parted with the croissants after such a busy- frenzy -packed folding-rolling weekend (say 3 times fast), I needed something simple to bake and nibble on around the house. I brought back many books from France but I have not had the chance to sit down and really read them through so I picked up Dorie one more time because I was sure to find something homy and for which I would have all the ingredients on hand. So far her recipes have not failed me so my hopes were high and I have to say that one more time, she did not disappoint.
She describes these as "deeply and unswervingly chocolaty-closer to the chocolatiness of a brownie than of a cookie(...) a bit crips at the surface and oatmeal-and-brown-sugar chewy through and through." Could not have said it better. These are delicious and great for a chocoholic!

Chocolate Oatmeal Drops, adapted from Dorie Greenspan, "Baking, From My Home to Yours":

Makes about 50 cookies

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 sticks (8oz) butter
1 Tb. water
1 1/2 cups packed light brown sugar
9 oz. bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 large eggs
1 1/2 cups old fashioned oats

Preheat oven to 350.
Sift together the flour, cocoa, baking soda and cinnamon.
Set a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Put the butter in the bowl and add the water, then the brown sugar and the chocolate. Melt on low heat, stirring occasionally. Don't let the ingredients get too hot, the mixture will remain grainy.
Remove from the heat and whisk in the eggs, one at a time. Whisk in the dry ingredients, then the oats. Do not stir too much.
Drop by tablespoonfuls on parchement paper lined baking sheet and bake for about 12 minutes.
Remove from oven and let cool to room temp. The soft center will harden once the cookies are out of the oven.


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I Think I Read Wrong...Croissants???

January 30, 2007



I strongly remember uttering these words one cold morning while spending Christmas at home... Let me give you the lowdown: a couple of months ago, as I was exchanging emails with Lisa, she mentionned that she, Yvonne, Peabody and Brilynn were going to make Biscotti and apost about it on the same day. Would I like to join in? Never the one to refuse an invitation, especially when it involved baking, I jumped on the offer, especially after I read about their first collaboration. It was fun, I had a good time and of course ate too many... Could not wait for the next cross baking post but figured that it would have to wait until after the holidays.
Imagine my surprise when Brilynn emailed her interest in croissants...I did not mean to sound blase or anything but I thought "clearly, she must not have made any or it's been a while..." and then I put the whole thing out of my mind, well, not really as I was myself on a croissant tasting tour of France!!

I made croissants before....I made kilometers and kilometers of them before...and I have learned to hate to love them....sums it up doesn't it ladies? I have learned to know what to do with my dough on certain days depending on the weather, I have learned to get butter and dough to the appropriate temperature, to fold, laminate, cut, fold, roll, etc...and each time I love and hate the process. Here is a sample of the conversations held with myself in my head (yep, croissants will do that to you!): did I proof the yeast right? Is this room too drafty? is the butter too warm? maybe it's the dough. Let it rest. Do I square-fold or rectangle-fold that butter? how many turns is that? dang! They look really big. Remember to egg wash....
When you work in a bakery, there are usually two people making croissants, one folds and turns, one cuts and shapes. Your baking schedule allows you to start the dough early one day and make other pastries and desserts while you fold and turn your dough several times.
At home, you got time to read, clean or relax and if you mess up you won't have a 6 feet tall Executive Watchdog yell at you unless you are married to one and he is extremely hungry.

Back to the present. When I got home, we all had agreed on croissants (hey I am game for anything, just meant I would have to run a few extra miles), our group now also included Quellia and Veronica. I was really excited about baking with this group as we all come from various countries, different cultural and culinary backgrounds, different moments in life, better-halved or not, with/without children, different jobs, occupations and hobbies. and I knew as I have often learned in a pastry kitchen that it would mean 7 different interpretations, readings and outcomes of the same recipe and that was really great... we had found the essence of baking and cooking, our Holy Grail.



I have relied on the same 2-3 same croissant recipes over the years so I was excited to try this new one from Tartine, and I bow to Veronica's computer for posting the recipe! The main differences for me was the use of a pre-ferment and a rectangular fold. I had planned to get on the same train as everyone else and start on Friday but my plans got derailed....I thought that over the years my husband had come to understand that when the words "making croissants" are spoken that means "you are on your own Bubbah"...well , my timetable got a little shaken as B. committed us to a dinner with our bestfriends (would not want to miss it) and half the neighborhood ended up in my living room on Sunday afternoon. Talk about making me nervous...I mixed the dough saturday morning, add the butter and gave it a first turn saturday before dinner. Gave it 2 more turns early Sunday and had to wait for the evening to roll, cut and shape. I have learned that too many turns does not necesseraly gives a better croissant so I stopped at 3 turns, but I am glad to see that 4 worked for some of us.
I have to admit that I only strayed in one thing: I used the old square fold (image courtesy of Le Petrin)to incorporate my butter and give the first turn. Why? Old chef taught me that way, I succeeded making them ever since and it became half old habit - half superstition.

As I was the last one the start, I received the blunt of everbody's fears, excitement, questions, and success as I woke up Sunday morning to 57 emails!!! As the day progressed, pictures starting trickling in and I was cheering "allright!" "you go girl" "oh man!" A sisterhood of croissants, all these women devoting their love of baking to pounds and pounds of butter and flour...with success! Don't you wish ya'll were our neighbors?!!

In the end I rolled half the dough for regular small croissants, 1/4 for chocolate ones and I froze the remaining quarter for Marzipan filled one for later. The chocolate ones did not turn up as flaky and moist as I would have wanted, this maybe due to the fact that I waited a while after the last turn and the weather changed on me. I am going to wait a few weeks....I love my arteries too much. If you make them, do not schedule any blood work the week after and deliver them to your neighbors walking not driving, your thighs will thank you!

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Tiramisu Verrines

January 28, 2007



I am having a renewed interest for Italian desserts and a sudden craving for Tiramisu. Since I don't seem to own that many Italian related cookbooks I dug up this recipe online. I think I must have looked at over 100 Tiramisus and as I often say: "my eyes were burning, my gums were hurting and my stomach was grawling from all that sugar"! , but now my taste buds are dancing!

Like many among us, I will always remember the first time I had (good) Tiramisu. My parents had taken my brother and I on a little excursion to Italy. We were staying in the Alps so it was a quick hop and we stop in a small village and entered the first restaurant we found open. I believe that I am the only one in the family to remember the whole thing but it was truly my first foodie experience. Everything we were served that afternoon was made fresh by the chef. He was alone in the kitchen, cooking us freah trays of antipasti, freah ravioli, salads and desserts. My father loves Tiramisu and never fails to order one at Italian restaurant he visits,(no joke), so you can bet that he was not going to pass on the opportunity to sample another!
I will always remember the look of satisfaction in his eyes after taking the first bite, that nod of his head toward my plate to tell me I could go ahead I would not be disappointed. My excitement was building up, my first grown up dessert! So classic in its black and white attire, so full of promises with its creamy interior. That particular Tiramisu set the standard for my expectations of a good Tiramisu: a subtle balance of espresso, brandy, cheese, cream and cookie.

You will find many different ways to make Tiramisu and I have yet to be sure of the "authentic" one. Some conain eggs, some whipped cream, some start with a sabayon/zabaglione, some use thin European ladyfingers, some prefer Savoiardi cookies. One thing for sure: use only the best mascarpone cheese you can find. I really hesitated between Mario and Tyler for this recipe. I tried not to be influenced by the reviewers. I really wanted to make Mario's version, his being if Italian descent and all, but in the end Tyler's won...and no not because he is a cutie (and Lisa won't disagree with me...!), but because it did not seem as dry. I am sure I'll eventually try Mario's and compare. This one is a kepper, flavorful, creamy, dense, complex.

Tiramisu, adapted from Tyler Florence:

Serves 10 (small glasses)

7 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup brandy, plus 2 tablespoons
8 ounces mascarpone, softened to room temperature
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup brewed espresso coffee
1 ounce dark chocolate
1/4 cup rum
1 teaspoon natural vanilla extract
30 savoiardi cookies, broken in small pieces
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

Cream together egg yolks and sugar in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water. Add 1/3 cup of the brandy and continue to whisk until mixture is thick and doubled in volume. Remove from heat. Stir in the mascarpone until completely blended.
In a chilled bowl, whip the heavy cream to soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the mascarpone mixture, to lighten.
In a small saucepan, combine espresso, chocolate, rum, vanilla, and remaining 2 tablespoons brandy. Heat gently, and stir to dissolve the chocolate. Then, chill the mixture to cool it down, about 15 minutes.
Divide the broken cookies pieces in the glasses and spoon enough of the coffee mixture to soak them. Spread 1/2 the mascarpone cream evenly with a spatula on top of the cookies. Repeat with a second layer of cookies, more coffee and remaining mascarpone cream. Whip the remaining 1/2 cup of heavy cream to soft peaks. Top each glass with some whiped cream. Sprinkle top with cocoa powder. Refrigerate for 2 hours before serving.




I think I could have way too many of these in one sitting. They are delicious! I am 8 again!
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Chocolate Kahlua Souffles


I hope I have not missed the deadline...I might have by a few hours... I am talking about my first participation in "Hay, Hay, it's Donna Day", a monthly event hosted this time by Running With Tweezers.

The theme this month gave me the possibility to make one of my to-go desserts when only a few ingredients are on hand and I want to impress guests with a minimum of fuss. Really, once you get over the fear of the whole "Oh My, Souffles...", there is nothing easier to do. If you know how to whip eggs to a stiff foam, then you're set.
I like the fact that souffles carry that mystic aura around them but I wish novice cooks were not that afraid about making them. It is truly fun to see a little puddle of egg whites foam up in the oven and then quickly turn its ugly head by deflating on you the moment you start breathing a sigh of relief because you succeeded. Souffles are deceiving like that, yet comforting, like resting your head on a pillow. I love digging my spoon into one, releasing that cloud of aromas and flavors. I love that they feel so light on my tongue with a glass of wine. I love that I feel no guilt if I have one (or 2) for dessert and I love the thousands of possible flavors you can spend a lifetime exploring in just one dessert.

I was pressed for time but did not want to miss the chance of baking one of my favorites, a chocolate Kahlua souffles. Obviously the alcohol can be changed at your heart's content but coffee and chocolate are definetely a good pair.

Chocolate and Kahlua Souffles, inspired by these:

Serves 4

1.5 oz (40 g) butter
1.5 oz (40 g) flour
1/4 pint (150 ml) milk
1/8 pint (75 ml) Kahlua
4 oz (100 g) plain or milk chocolate
1.5 oz (40 g) sugar
2 eggs, separated

Melt the butter in a saucepan. Remove from the heat and add the flour. Stir until smooth. Place the milk and chocolate pieces in a saucepan and heat until the chocolate melts.
Pour onto the butter and flour mixture, return to low heat and stir until the mixture thickens a bit. Remove from the heat. Add the sugar, liqueur and egg yolks, and mix well.
Whisk the two egg whites until stiff and gently fold into the chocolate mixture. Turn into 4 greased ramekin dishes. Cover and place in a roasting tin with 1-inch (2.5 cm) water.
Bake at 190C/375F/gas mark 5 for 40-50 minutes. Serve immediately.

Wait a minute! These don't look souffle-ish...! Well, this is an actual picture of a souffle in the deflating phase...seriously! The reason? Batteries put in the wrong way in the camera and the following 40 seconds delay in the picture shot which gave enough time for that little marvel to show it's ugly side...oh well, it is still delicious.
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